Fatima, Berber weaver

22 August 2013

Fatima is 47 years old. She lives in Ain Leuh, a small village hidden in the Middle Atlas Mountains. This generous and determined woman has lived her entire life in the area, she was born in Toufassalet and got married in Boudraa. She shows both the pride and deep sense of hospitality inherent to her Berber culture. Her husband lives and works in France in Montpellier. They have six children.

47 years old and an entire weaving lifetime behind her. Weaving for her, is like eating or breathing: a vital practice, which began at the age of twelve, when she first learned from her mother. She has a perfect knowledge of the motifs and patterns typical of the tribe she belongs to: the Beni M’Guild. Like her mother did before, she passed on her knowledge to her daughters ; everything at home, pillows, rugs, blankets, has done by her nimble hands. She makes the traditional Moroccan wool coat known as “ burnous” for her husband ; she even makes “ khaïmas”, the traditional Berber tents. Winters are harsh in Ain Leuh, thus her weavings are made from thick wool yarns which she has previously carded and spun.

As I was taught by Abdou, from Dar Neghrassi in Azrou, the traditional Berber cape called “handira” is like the identity card of the Amazigh woman. It is adorned with symbols and motifs indicating the origin of the weaver, her family and her tribe. As I watched Fatima methodically putting her cape on her shoulders, with pride and dignity, I realized its value. She has woven her own cape at the age of fourteen. All the textile pieces composing a young Berber bride trousseau are meant to be for an everyday use, but they also have a high value of social representation.

According to tradition, her loom is built vertically. Motifs are woven backwards but Fatima never has a look at what she is weaving until it’s finished, she works by memory. Watching her beautiful hands adorned with henna moving like those of a harpist, putting carefully the weft yarns between the warp yarns to form intricate patterns, is a scene of fascinating beauty. Fatima told me in Tamazight, the Berber language, that weaving is her way to meditate. Sometimes she wakes up at night, driven by a sudden inspiration which pushes her to go her to her loom, to reproduce the motifs that have come to her mind while dreaming.

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AIN LEUH, MAROC

Abdou, the passion for the Berber rugs

21 August 2013

Dar Neghrassi is a treasure cavern in the historical center of the city of Azrou, with piles of carpets and plenty of textile antiques in every room, books on traditional Berber carpets and a couple of cats wandering around peacefully. This is Abdou’s kingdom. Being more a passionate antique dealer than just any carpet seller, he has the talent to recognize from which tribe a piece of fabric comes from, assessing the origin, age and quality of a carpet or a handira, a cape called by Berbers “tahdounte “. In this beautiful old mansion, lit by soft light coming down from the canopy, Abdou receives friends, customers and tourists visiting the Middle Atlas area, looking for some beautiful pieces to take back home.

Former law student, he has finally returned to his homeland in Azrou to work with his father. They initially started their activities in the souk markets, but now Abdou is holding their store Dar Neghrassi, while his father goes for the textile treasures hunting in the different Berber tribes living in the area. As a sale, exchange and store goods platform, the Neghrassi house is more than just a bazaar, it’s almost a museum.

To support and perpetuate these traditional know-how, Abdou has developed a longstanding relationship with several weavers from the surrounding area, such as the weaving women from the cooperative of the nearby village of Ain Leuh. To help these women make a decent income, he encourages them to develop new designs, such as simplified rugs using the Berber typical patterns from the Beni M’Guild tribe located close by in Ifrane, requiring less time to be produced but keeping all the original qualities of the Berber carpets: authentic wool yarns dyed by natural pigments.

I have spent a few hours in his company and he has opened me to a world of subtilities. Like showing me the complexity of an old piece compared to a recent one, feeling the beauty of natural wool as opposed to acrylic yarn. I have seen how madder plants can give a deep red color, henna provides variations of orange and brown tones, and indigo leaves produce a deep blue color. I was also taught how to appreciate the differences between the Beni M’Guild tribe’s and the Beni Ouarain’s products.

It was great to hear him say that you do not find the same “spirit” in a rug made to be sold as opposed to a one woven to be kept. Abdou shared the idea that the loom is the receptacle of the Berber soul, a way to convey emotions of this culture in its weavings by carrying symbols of their families and heritage.

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AZROU, MAROC

Zakaria and the colors of Sahel

29 May 2013

In Ouagadougou, the craft company Couleurs du Sahel produces original fabrics and cotton linen, in the spirit of Faso Dan Fani, the typical Burkinabe cotton loincloth, and bogolan, a printing and dyeing technique from Mali.

Zakaria, its founder, is committed in a friendly production environment on the whole chain, from the choice of organic cotton to yarn dyeing by natural pigments, and finally the weaving process on hand looms .

The day I met him, he was wearing a shirt cut in a fabric from his workshop, a beautiful cotton canvas in a very refined gray-green color. This affable and passionate man is availing himself from the traditional Burkina Faso textile crafts.

He gently shared his knowledge with me and showed me the different plants and leaves used for their natural pigments, usually by decoction. This way I discovered which vegetation grows around Ouagadougou city and which color it can give: African tree peels (called n’pecou) which gives an orange-reddish color, African birch leaves (called n’Galama) give bright yellow, the locust bean gives brown and finally indigo leaves give a deep blue color. Basing his knowledge on botanical books, Zakaria constantly keeps developing new colors by new dyeing tests.

His cotton comes from Burkina Faso. This “white gold” as we call it, is one of the main resources of the country and is a great success for export. And organic cotton has become a very promising industry. There are still some difficulties to keep a steady supply. Yarn stocks are sometimes scarce and it can be difficult to fill orders when the required due time is very short.

Couleurs du Sahel has joined a cooperative of twelve workshops all in the textile industry, in order to get more leverage in the cotton orders and to promote the development of their business.

Zakaria proudly wears Burkina Faso’s identity, showing a great example between tradition and modernity, and defending an artisanal quality production, self-sufficient and resourceful, based on natural resources of the country.

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OUAGADOUGOU, BURKINA FASO